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Hair breakage vs hair loss: the London differential

Breakage and hair loss get confused constantly — and the treatments are opposite. Getting the diagnosis right is half the win.

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Priya Raman

Trichologist · Shoreditch

6 min4 February 2026

In short

  • Breakage: hair snaps mid-shaft. Loss: hair falls out from the follicle with a root.
  • Look at your shower drain — bulbs at the end = loss; no bulbs = breakage.
  • Breakage is a repair problem (protein + moisture); loss is a follicle problem (medical).
  • Confusing the two is the commonest reason for wasted treatment spend in London hair care.

Breakage looks like hair loss but is a completely different problem. Every week London trichologists see patients who have spent months on hair loss treatments for what is actually mechanical breakage — and vice versa.

The one test that separates them

Look at the strands you're losing. If there is a small white bulb at the root — that's a shed hair, from the follicle. If both ends are just broken shaft — that's breakage. The bulb test takes 30 seconds and settles the diagnostic question.

Breakage causes

  • Over-processing — bleach, dye, keratin, relaxer.
  • Heat damage — cumulative flat-ironing above safe temperatures.
  • Mechanical — rough brushing, hair ties with metal joins, cotton pillowcases.
  • Protein deficiency in the shaft — usually from over-conditioning without protein rotation.

The London repair routine

Weekly bond repair mask + weekly hydrating mask alternated, silk pillowcase, snag-free hair ties, cut off worst 2–4cm. Combined with a heat break for 4 weeks, most breakage settles noticeably within 6–8 weeks.

Bulb at the root, medical. No bulb, structural. Everything follows from that.

Frequently asked

Common questions

How do I know if I'm losing 100 hairs a day or 500?+

Save shed hair over 3 days and count. Above 150/day average sustained is worth investigating.

Can breakage cause thinning at the temples?+

Yes — traction from tight styles causes both breakage and eventually follicle damage.

Will minoxidil fix breakage?+

No — minoxidil works on the follicle, not the shaft. Bond repair fixes breakage.

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