In short
- Sebum production is largely hormone-driven, not shampoo-driven.
- Over-washing (daily strong shampoo) triggers rebound over-production.
- Alternate-day washing with a gentle sulfate-free shampoo restores balance in 3–4 weeks.
- Salicylic acid or zinc pyrithione weekly manages excess oil without stripping.
The oily scalp is one of the most misunderstood complaints in the salon. Most Londoners over-wash with harsh shampoos, strip the scalp, trigger rebound sebum, and repeat the cycle daily. The fix is counterintuitive: less, gentler, more consistent.
Why the scalp over-oils
Sebum production is regulated by androgens (particularly DHT), stress hormones, and the scalp microbiome. Over-washing removes protective lipids and bacterial balance; the scalp reads this as damage and up-regulates sebum production to compensate.
The daily protocol that works
- Wash every other day, not daily.
- Use a sulfate-free daily shampoo (avoid SLS/SLES).
- Once weekly: a clarifying wash with salicylic acid (2%) or zinc pyrithione.
- Skip scalp oils entirely — they compound the problem.
- Rinse conditioner only through the mid-lengths and ends, never at the root.
When to see a specialist
If oil is accompanied by itching, flaking, or redness, this is likely seborrheic dermatitis (not just oily) — a specialist protocol with anti-fungal or anti-inflammatory ingredients is required. A London scalp facial (£95–£175) is a good starting point.
The scalp learns from the last four weeks — not the last four days.
Frequently asked
Common questions
Should I dry-shampoo between washes?+
Sparingly — dry shampoo masks but does not remove sebum, and daily use clogs follicles. Twice weekly maximum.
Is scalp scrubbing helpful?+
Gentle massage yes; mechanical scrubs no — they cause micro-trauma that worsens oiliness over time.
Does diet affect scalp oil?+
High-glycaemic diets modestly increase sebum. The evidence is weaker than skincare's, but real.
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